Welcome



Welcome to Hi-Lites, Atelier Emmanuel’s blog! Every month, learn about the latest news, events and promotions and discover our services and beauty experts. Throughout, we'll also be sprinkling tidbits about care, beauty, and trends in the beauty industry. Scroll through, and if there is anything you would like us to add, let us know!


Friday, July 15, 2011

Atelier Emmanuel Styles for Ads

Our staff was asked to do hair, color, and makeup for two ads recently.

First, Darby Shields-Ciampi did hair and color for an i.Color ad:



And then, we were asked to do stylings for Chase Bank feature about Zem Joaquin, of Splendora.
Emmanuel styled Zem and Lena did the makeup.

Thursday, July 14, 2011

Selections from recent photoshoots

We had a slew of photoshoots in the last month or so, which we are slowly going through and using. Here a few selections, with some words from the stylists who participated.


Stylist Britney with Briana
"I had a 70s style in mind, but was limited by what the model could do with her hair while keeping her agent happy. She wanted to go lighter, which fitted in line with my idea, so we lifted her base about 3 shades, then added dome balayage highlites for a subtle, sun-kissed ombré look.

The cut was still 70s inspired but not quite as extreme, with shorter face framing layers and styled away from the face in loose waves."



Junior Stylist Paul on Jordan
"I just like bouncy sexy hair," was Paul's first response. "She looks glamorous to me, and that's how I want clients to feel once they leave seeing me." Jordan commented that she'd never seen her hair with that much bounce, before. There was definitely more movement to her than when she came in. This can be a challenge with some asian hair, which can often just lay flat. Paul kept the style soft around the face—not too curly, so it properly framed her features. Full curls near her face, he explained, would have made her cheeks look too full.



Stylists Emmanuel and Darby with Richelle
As with Britney's model, Emmanuel was limited as to what he could with Richelle's hair. She wanted to keep her length, and didn't want coloring. "The state of her hair was not the best," says Emmanuel. "A lot of what I did was cleaning it up, bringing it together, making it work." Emmanuel brought in Darby to do the final styling. Her solution was simple. A straightforward blow dry with one graceful element to set it apart.

Yay Edgar!


Congratulations to Edgar who passed his licensing exam on Friday, July 8. This means that he can now begin to work as an assistant in our salon!

He is taking on the ‘rigors’ of an apprenticeship with Emmanuel just as Paul is now transitioning to being solely a Junior Stylist, so the timing works well.

So what’s the first step of the apprenticeship? It’s going to sound funny, but the first thing Edgar will be trained on is giving a proper shampoo. As any of you who have been to different stylists knows, not everyone does it well. Some are too vigorous, some too soft, or sloppy, or.... It’s not an obvious skill. But an important one, since that’s when you first get a feel for your stylist’s skill.

French (Hair) Revolutions

- By Virginie Delplanque

For Bastille Day 2011, we thought that it would be fun to do a little overview of French hair trends beginning with this seminal period in French history and moving forward to the present. We'll give a little historical background, and then present the hair trends of each era.

Part 1 - The 18th Century
Bastille Day and the French Revolution - Some Background

Bastille Day is the French equivalent of our 4th of July, except it is celebrated on the 14th of July.

It refers to the storming of the Bastille that occurred in Paris on the morning of July 14, 1789. This day marks the beginning of the French Revolution (Révolution française) which lasted 10 years, from 1789 to 1799.

It is a milestone in French History: the radical social and political upheaval that took place in France during this period led to the collapse of the absolute monarchy which had ruled for centuries and to the First French Republique. So the storming of the Bastille fortress-prison is seen as a symbol of the uprising of the modern nation.

The 18th Century Hairstyles - Before and During The French Revolution: The Milestones
This day played an important role in both our political and social history, changing fashion trends dramatically. The images below illustrate the evolution of the styles across the 18th Century.

Before the French Revolution:
At the beginning of the 1700s, hairstyles for men are more sophisticated than for women. The main style is the “Louis XIV style”, with wigs, big curls and shoulder (or waaay past) length . Women, from the beginning of the 1700s until 1720s, wear the “Fontange style”, named after the Duchess Fontange. The big styles reflects the standing of Louis XIV, who was both a highly successful monarch and a big personality.



In the mid 1700s King Louis XV imposes a style with smaller men’s wigs. Men start wearing a pony tail, fixed with a ribbon. Under his reign, women also adopt a new and simpler style called “tete de Mouton” (sheep’s head) with big curls and a few locks of the nape of the neck.



Styles usually changed along with rulers. It was a way to establish the authority of the new leader. In this case, Louis XV could not compete with the grandeur of his predecessor; and so he reined the style in and took a more reserved tact.

However towards the end of the 18th century (around 1770) but before the French Revolution, the trend changes completely: women start wearing exuberant and high wigs, (of 2" to 3' height) for special events. This perhaps was linked to the transition from Louis XV to his successor Louis XVI?





During the French Revolution
During the French Revolution, the luxury and exuberance of the Monarchy are eradicated with the new republican ideas. Hair styles become simpler and more classical. The French drop the wigs and style their natural hair.



What's interesting is that until the Revolution, the dominant style followed the insular world of the Royal Court, a setting cut off from the rest of France. This bubble reality bursts, and fashions are brought down to a more egalitarian level.

Up next: French Hair Trends in the 19th Century!

Wednesday, July 13, 2011

Platinum Hair Extensions Case Study

Darby recently did an internal training on extensions. The demo was to introduce our stylists and apprentices to Platinum Seamless Extensions, which Darby has found to be one of the better hair extensions systems on the market today.

Here are two "Before" pictures of the model:





This model wanted length, of course. She also wanted a lot of volume. Many people don't consider the various effects that hair extensions can have. They can be about more than just longer hair!



This is a nice picture because it shows how dramatic the added length can be. We are in the early stages of adding the extensions. The model's hair was first washed and then blown dry to remove all oils and products, helping the extensions adhere. We start at the back and work our way up.



The Platinum Hair Extensions system uses wefts attached with a strong, medical grade adhesive instead of clips, cornrows, or little plastic beads. This allows the extension to flow like natural hair, without separation at the bottom, and causes very little tension at the scalp.



The extensions are almost all in. Already it's hard to see where the original hair ends, and the extensions start. This is due to the good color and texture matching of natural and added hair, and the precise placement of pieces.




This is where many stylists would stop. In this case, though, Darby is not satisfied with a wig-like, one-length look.



Darby makes the point that if you just put in extensions and leave it at that, the results usually look obvious and heavy-handed. It is absolutely necessary to shape the extensions so that they blend properly with your own hair, and so that you have a hairstyle that looks finished.

Some women are hesitant to cut any of the length off their lush new tresses. But remember that the point of adding extensions is not just to have more hair, but to have a new look that looks great on you. The length and shape should be believable, stylish, and flattering.




The end result. If you compare this photo to the one above it, you can see that the model did not really lose much length. However, the hair now falls naturally, tapering slightly at the ends just like real hair does.

In case you've forgotten, here's her original length:



And her new length:



Again, this model wanted length and volume. Darby also added a fringe to update and freshen her overall look. You can adapt extensions to create many different styles, even playing with a variety of haircuts during the life of your extensions without sacrificing your own hair. Our model felt like a glamorous new woman - she left the salon and went right out on the town!

Caring for Your Hair Extensions


Please note that these guidelines are for Platinum Seamless Extensions, which we offer. Some guidelines might differ with other hair extension systems.

If you’re reading this blog, it probably means that you were lucky enough to recently get extensions at our salon! Below are all the guidelines you need to properly care for them. Understanding these guidelines will maximize the longevity of your extensions, meaning that you get to fully enjoy your new look.

If you don’t yet have extensions, but are considering getting some, it is worth glancing over these guidelines as they will help you better understand how to care for extensions. It’s not really that hard, but it is worth knowing ahead of time.

Here are the basics:
  • Try to stay out of damp environments (steam baths, etc)
  • Brush hair thoroughly to remove tangles
  • Keep conditioner and oil-based styling products off bonds
  • Dry bond sites thoroughly after washing
  • Don’t bump into your attachments with a hot curling iron

Follow-up Appointments

  • Schedule a 7 day check after initial application.
  • Schedule monthly check up appointments.
Shampoo Directions
  • *Wait 48 hours before washing after extension service.
  • Always brush and detangle hair before shampooing.
  • Platinum Products are recommended. These are included with an Atelier Emmanuel hair extensions appointment.
  • Thoroughly wet hair in an upright position, allowing hair to flow in a vertical direction down the sides and back.
  • Distribute shampoo evenly, starting at the top of your head.
  • Gently shampoo hair from root to ends one time.
  • Do not over-shampoo extensions.
  • Never rub, scrub, or bunch hair while washing.
  • Rinse attachments and hair thoroughly. Gently squeeze excess water from hair.
Conditioning Directions
  • Keep conditioner 1-2 inches away from attachments.
  • Distribute conditioner generously, using downward strokes, mid-shafts to ends.
  • Run fingers through or gently comb through to distribute conditioner evenly through hair. Leave on 3-5 minutes.
  • Rinse with warm water and finish with cool water to seal the cuticle of the hair.
  • Use a soft towel to absorb the excess water and blot firmly, never rub.
  • When conditioning, always avoid the attachment zone.
  • Never pull or tub when combing, apply leave-in conditioner or Maintain to easily comb through hair.
  • Always support extensions attachment by holding hand firmly on the scalp while combing and detangling hair to avoid tension at the root area.
  • Always blow dry your attachments thoroughly. Separate extensions while blow drying to ensure that attachments dry completely.
  • Always blow dry hair downward in the direction hair grows.
  • Curling or flat irons and heat rollers may be use at moderate heat levels when the hair is thoroughly dry.
  • Use silicone/shine styling products sparingly.
Nighttime Preparation
  • Never go to bed with wet extensions.
  • Apply a small amount of Rejuvenate, Maintain, or Revive to hair as needed for conditioning dry hair areas.
  • Loosely braid extensions before sleeping. Sleep on a silk or satin pillowcase to avoid friction to hair.
Swimming/Chlorine/Salt Water
  • Tie hair in a loose braid securing with a cloth band.
  • Apply a leave-in conditioner to protect hair.
  • Avoid soaking the head in water for long periods of time as salt or chlorine damage can occur.
  • Be sure to shampoo and condition after swimming to remove salt/chlorine from hair and attachments.
  • Use a soft towel to absorb the excess water and blot firmly. Never scrub.
  • Use a wide tooth comb and conditioner to detangle.
Sport Activities
  • Place hair in a braid or ponytail to keep from tangling.
  • Apply Rejuvenate from mid-shaft to ends and at the base of the neck to protect hair from sweat.
  • After excessive sweating, shampoo hair and condition as soon as possible to remove
  • sweat/oils that may affect the integrity and condition of the extensions.
Hair Care Tips
  • Use Rejuvenate, Maintain, or Revive serum after shampooing and conditioning.
  • Use a leave-in conditioner before night braiding.
  • Keep extensions clean from sweat.
  • Avoid high heat appliances.
  • Use a loop or natural boar bristle brush.
  • Deep condition once a week.
  • Use cloth, lightweight hair accessories.
  • Use Maintenance Therapy Serum as directed.
  • Ask stylists for hair products with UVA/UVB block.
  • Thoroughly comb/brush hair twice daily. Be sure to comb/brush between attachments.
Have any questions? Contact a stylist at our salon:
415.362.8063 | atelieremmanuel at gmail dot com

Hair Down to THERE?

An introduction to hair extensions by Darby Shields Ciampi, Stylist.

Hair extensions are a ubiquitous celebrity accessory. How else can stars like Rihanna, Jennifer Aniston, Britney Spears, and even Brad Pitt go from short to long so quickly, and change hair color so often? You’d expect their tresses to be a fried, porous mess! But they simply wear someone else's hair — and pay top dollar to keep it in perfect shape all the time.

What about the rest of us? We all see bad extension jobs on the street: girls strutting by with frizzed mushrooms on top, and limp, long strands of spaghetti hanging down their backs, usually mismatched in color.


(special thank you to Mischa Barton for the case study)

Is a beautiful head of long, healthy, sexy hair out of reach for the average salon client?

The answer, thankfully, is no.

Today the market is saturated with hair “enhancement” methods and products. With the help of an experienced and ethical stylist, most clients will be able to have the hair of their dreams without outlandish abuse of their wallets.

Many clients have serious concerns and questions regarding hair extensions in the salon: Is the hair real? How does it stay on my head? How much will it cost? How do I take care of it? How long will it last? How do you remove it? Is it good for everyone?

First, yes the hair we use is real. In fact, at Atelier Emmanuel, we use the highest quality hair available. It is “Remi”, meaning the cuticle is aligned in the same direction it grew out of the head. Certain companies sell non-Remi hair, and shave the cuticle layer down so that there is less tangling; however this hair degrades rapidly and will not survive repeated washings well.

There are several methods available for wearing hair extensions. These range from clip-ins, glueing, and braiding (wefts are sewn onto tiny cornrows), to fusion, and medical-grade adhesive attachments. Only an experienced stylist, accustomed to working with different hair types and knowledgeable about various methods, should recommend a type of extensions to you. Each has its pros and cons, and is better suited to different clientele.

As the methods differ, so does the cost. There is a huge range to explore between adding a few pieces as an accessory for the evening, to a full head of waist-length hair. Cost is determined by method, length desired, amount of hair needed, and stylist time. All prices are quoted during a detailed, in-person consultation, for which there is no charge.

Longevity of extensions is directly related to their maintenance. For details, click here.

With good care, some methods can last 2-4 months, and even longer. Removal varies, but is usually accomplished with a liquid dissolving agent and gentle separation of the extension from the natural hair. Because the added strands bear much of the brunt of styling, their removal often leaves a client’s hair in better condition than at the beginning of the process!

That said, extensions aren’t for everyone.

Hair that is fragile from illness, chemotherapy, or certain medicines often does not hold attachments well.
This is due to the extra weight on the scalp, which would be minimal for regular hair. Also, clients suffering from alopecia will shed their extensions the same way their natural hair is shed. Finally, some athletes who spend large amounts of their day sweating profusely may have difficulty keeping extensions in. For very oily and/or sweaty scalps, there are successful methods of attachment, but a clarifying shampoo is usually necessary as a maintenance tool.

I'd like to close with an important point: A good cut is of paramount importance.

Many stylists attach extensions and charge top prices, then send a client out the door looking like she’s wearing a wig from the costume store. Your hairdresser should know how to blend your hair and the added pieces seamlessly, so that they flow naturally and are easy to style at home. The color, of course, should match flawlessly. At Atelier Emmanuel, we recommend having color services on your own hair done prior to ordering hair for extensions, so that we may make a perfect match.

It is good policy to ask lots of questions; we are available to give careful advice.

And dream big – the extensions experts at Atelier Emmanuel delight in providing you with the hair of your fantasies! Paparazzi, beware!

Below is a recent '
before and after' for a hair extension service which I gave at the salon. You can check out the full pictorial case study for more pics.



Tuesday, July 12, 2011

The Importance of the Consultation | Part 3


Stylist Darby with Charlotte

In Part 1 we laid out why we feel the consultation is an integral part of a hair service appointment. Then in Part 2 we offered some tips on how you, as the client, can maximize the success of your consultation.
Now in the third part of our article, we give you 3 more tips. The
se are basic, juicy ones, so read on!

Bring Images
We love when clients bring in images! A lot of you do this, so keep it up. A picture of what you want is a great place to start a consultation. Images are a common language, so even if you don’t yet share a common tongue, images will help you and your stylist learn to.

Hint!
Ask “How could we make this work for me?” It gives your stylist the opening they need to pipe in. As we mentioned in Part 2, stylists are accommodating people and they might give you exactly what they see in an image because they think that it’s what you want—even if it they can tell it won’t work for you.

Recently Emmanuel had a new client, a younger woman with beautiful black hair. She wanted to look just like the starlet in an image she brought in. The problem? The starlet had very blonde hair. For Emmanuel to get the client’s hair to go that blonde would have required hours in the chair and a ton of processing. The health of the hair would have been ruined in the process.

Fortunately they were both engaged in the consultation, and comfortable speaking frankly. She asked Emmanuel what he thought. He laid out what it would take for her to get that blonde hair. He also expressed his opinion that her black hair was quite nice as it was. The young client opted to skip the blonde, but get the style. Afterwards, she was very glad she did. The look fit her.

Want your stylist to succeed
This might sound funny, but some clients come in with a pessimistic outlook. They set their stylist up to fail in the hopes that he or she won't. Sounds paradoxical? Yes, it does. Maybes it's because many clients have been burned by past stylists? We're not sure. But some clients come in wanting the stylist to REALLY prove themselves.

And, hey, it's great if they do. They're golden from then on.

But, well, it's just not necessary. Work with your stylist. Want them to succeed, help them succeed. You're just that much more likely to come out with the hairstyle you wanted.

Trust your gut
This is probably the best piece of advice we can give you. if you don’t feel comfortable that your stylist has understood you, speak up. If you can’t, or you don’t feel like they are getting you, leave!

It can take weeks and weeks for hair to grow enough to recoup from an unsatisfactory hair style. Better to go another day with your current look, than to risk one you won’t like.

If you give the consultation the time it deserves, you really minimize your chances of this happening, though.

Actually, lets put this another way: if you make sure that you communicated during the consultation, you will get the haircut you want.

Remember that communication is a two way process. You and your stylist both participate in order for the stylist to properly conceptualize what you are looking for. This could take a minute, or ten. Just make sure that it has happened, before you let your stylist snip a strand of hair!

Hopefully this article has helped clarify some pitfalls to avoid and some tips to try out. We'll soon write an article about the consultation from the stylist end of things.

If you’ve had a haircut that was a success because of the consultation, or an example of how communication failed, let us know in the comments below. We'd really like to hear about your experiences!

The Importance of the Consultation | Part 2


Stylist James with Adam

In the first part of this article, we presented why we view the consultation as so crucial to your hairstyling or coloring session (or any other beauty and health services, for that matter).

It might seem obvious when you hear us say it. But in practice, we see many stylists and clients gloss over it, spending a scan minute or two on the consultation. It's our belief that many of the mistakes which cause clients to leave unhappy occur because the consultation failed.

Our goal is to help you take charge of your consultation and make sure that you and your stylist are on the same page. Keep reading for some of our suggestions to help you do that!

Specific vs. General language
What does “short” mean to you? What is “don’t cut too much?”
It’s better to specify. The best way to do that? Use body landmarks as markers.

“I want my hair in the back to fall to the top of my shoulder blades” is much clearer than “I’d like it cut medium.”

Show versus Tell
Instead of talking about what you’d like, show your stylist. Use your hands! Move the hair around to illustrate where you want it to fall. This is called “shaping.” Shaping the hair to show what you want, according to Emmanuel, is much more meaningful than the usual descriptions like “long layers” or “bangs.”

Again, we want to get away from the abstract to the concrete. We’re talking about your hair here, so why not include it in the conversation?

Know What Kind of Client You Are
It’s good to understand how you communicate.

Are you timid or tend to minimize what you truly want? Some people, for example, might say “I want to go a little red,” when really they mean to go quite a few degrees of red more than “a little.” If your stylist doesn’t pick up that you really do want to go red, he might only do a mild change that will leave you dissatisfied.

And then there’s the “Whatever” client. They'll tell their stylist to do whatever they want... When does “anything goes” really go, though?

The “Whatever” client usually does have an idea of what they want. They just don’t know how to express it, or aren’t used to having the space to figure it out. Or they hope that the stylist is psychic. Don't assume it. Take the time to spell it out.

Remember, no good haircut can happen without a good consultation.

And if you really are open to any kind of style of color, make sure to have the stylist spell it out first. No surprises is better than a bad surprise when it comes to your hair!

Be an Equal Partner
Want to know a good way to help yourself? See yourself and the stylist as equals. You are collaborators for the next hour or two. Your stylist is an expert of hair; you are an expert of your hair and what you want. It’s a great match!

Allow yourself to feel comfortable, act like there’s no pressure. Part of the goal of this article is to help you not feel pressured by the consultation. I know in my own experience I feel like I need to rush through it, and let the stylist get to the haircutting—as if I’m using up their time. And some people think that the more time the stylist spends snipping or coloring the better the outcome will be. But it really isn’t the case.

Recall that Emmanuel thinks of the consultation as 50% of a good haircut!

Resolving Contradictions and Paradoxes
In French, we joke “On coupe, mais on garde toute la longueur” (We cut, but lets keep all the length).

Quite often we hear clients wanting to accomplish things which are simply not compatible.

“I want to get rid of about 4 inches; I want to let my hair grow longer”

“I’d like it cut really short, but keep the part.”

Well, you can’t really have a part with short hair!

What often happens is that stylists are nice people, and they try to fulfill conflicting requests, leading to unsatisfactory results. A lot of the responsibility of this part of the consultation falls to your stylist. It is their job to point where there are inconsistencies in your requests. But you can make it easier for them by picking up their cues.

Result vs the Steps to Get There
A lot of these contradictions and paradoxes come when clients confuse the result they want with the steps it takes to get there. Problems can arise when we don’t distinguish the two. Our recommendation? Focus on the result you want. Trust your stylist to know what it will take to get there. That’s their job!

Ready for more tips? Click here for the final part of this article!

The Importance of the Consultation | Part 1



If there’s one thing to get from this article, it’s that the consultation is a vital and invaluable part of your appointment. Don’t shirk it, don’t rush it.

“The consultation,” Emmanuel recently said, “is 50% of the haircut — at least. The cutting is no big deal.” Bold words!

Of course Emmanuel doesn’t mean that anyone can cut hair well. But it is true, in practice, that knowing how to cut hair isn’t enough to produce a good haircut.

So what does produce a good haircut? You could break it down this way:
  • Consultation
  • Conceptualization
  • Cutting
  • Finishing
The consultation is so important because without it a stylist cannot conceptualize what he or she will do. Think of “conceptualization” as the image in the stylist’s mind of what they will do. Without this step, a stylist can only resort to a generic approach, and at best an ‘okay’ haircut. Not knowing where they are to trying to go with your haircut means that it is hard to create a style that truly comes together.

A stylist can't properly conceptualize a hairstyle without a successful consultation. Thus the consultation is the foundation for all the other steps leading to good hair services.

So what’s a consultation? Simply put, a consultation is when you and your stylist get on the same page. You clarify what you want (with the stylist; but also with yourself!), see if the stylist can do it, and develop a shared vocabulary for future sessions.

A consultation is all about communication.

Your stylist is not psychic. Experienced, yes. REALLY intuitive, yes. But not a mindreader. He or she needs you to be able to communicate, just as much as you need him or her to listen to you.

In an upcoming article we will talk about practices that help a stylist improve the consultation.

Meanwhile, click here for part 2 of this article, where we cover some suggestions that will you maximize the success of your consultation.

Remember: while we'll probably keep referring to haircuts, the consultation is important for any hair services, as well as other beauty and health services like manicures and massages.

Thursday, July 7, 2011

Prêt-à-Porter SF 2011

Attended by Britney, Stephanie, James, George, Paul, and Virginie.

The San Francisco Fashion and Merchants Alliance (SFFAMA) hosted the SF Prêt-à-Porter show last Thursday at Madrone Studios. Atelier Emmanuel — represented by Britney, Stephanie, Paul, James and George — styled the hair for the models.

The collections were an amalgamation of global fashion, technology, sophistication; the designers came from Ireland, the Middle East, South Africa, Thailand, China, Russia and the United States. Owen Geronimo, founder of the SFFAMA, asked us to match the fashions with a natural and simple look. Our team was tasked to create sophisticated pony tails for about 24 female models within one hour. We were pretty happy with the results and felt that they fit the variety of looks presented.

The test for us was the time limit within which we worked. Doing many styles in a short time frame is a skill in itself, even if the styling is simple. We look forward to doing shows which will allow us to show our creative chops, though!

It was great to be involved in a professional fashion show, and we appreciate SFFAMA's effort to bring San Francisco unto the global fashion scene. You can see more about the event by following the link to their website: Prêt-à-Porter SF.