Keratin Treatments Part I: Telling the options apart

Keratin Treatments continue to be in-demand, controversial and confusing. In-demand because they work, doing anything from making hair more manageable and healthier, to completely transforming the look of hair. Controversial, because one of the key ingredients used by many brands, formaldehyde, is believed to be harmful. Confusing, because — well, first because no one is sure how much of a controversy there is, and second because there are so many similar sounding treatments that it's confusing to know if they are talking about the same service or not!

We are going to explore Keratin Treatments in two posts. In this post, below, we will work at distinguishing the different treatments from one another. In a second post we will cover the formaldehyde controversy.

The differences between Brazilian, Keratin, Straightening and Smoothing Treatments

“Brazilian Treatment” is actually generic terminology that refers to the country where the technology  originated. Brazilian Treatment mustn’t be confused with the brand Brazilian Blowout. Brazilian Blowout has been under scrutiny for its misleading labeling about formaldehyde. Because the two sound alike, many people assume that all Brazilian Treatments are under review, which is not the case.

"A Brazilian Treatment is not the same as a Brazilian Blowout"

You may also have heard the terminology “Keratin Treatment”. This is the same as Brazilian Treatment. This second name comes from the fact that the treatment contains and releases a protein called keratin. Keratin is the substance which hair (as well as nails) is made of. Frequent styling, heating and chemical applications causes hair to lose keratin. As a result the hair shaft becomes spliced, uneven, and gains a dull, unmanageable appearance.

Scientists have devised a way to extract keratin from other sources, like animal wool, and turn it into a mixture that acts like liquid hair. Applying this product to human hair fills the hair cortex with keratin again, turning it soft and shiny. It can even make frizzy or curly hair much easier to straighten. The keratin reinfusion helps hair resist the impact of the sun, wind, or extreme changes in temperature, helping to break the damaging cycle of already compromised hair.

"Keratin does not directly straighten hair"

Since the salon treatment is often called Keratin Straightening Treatment, clients assume that it’s the keratin that straightens the hair, but this is not correct.

When a Keratin Treatment is performed, a salon professional applies a solution that instantly infuses the hair with keratin, repairing damage and flaws due to loss of keratin. This increases shine and reduces frizz, but does not directly straighten the hair.

A cocktail of chemicals creates the straightening effect. Formaldehyde is one of these cocktails. Formaldehyde actually does double duty: it's a big player in straightening the hair, and it also aids the infusion of keratin into the hair cortex.

Straightening vs Smoothing Treatments
A Straightening Treatment is a treatment that is going to make your hair straight. It’ll do this to curly, wavy, frizzy, coarse, fine, virgin, color or processed hair. A straightening treatment usually uses stronger ingredients (or a higher quantity of specific ingredients) than smoothing treatments.

A Smoothing Treatment will make your hair smooth, soft, shiny and generally more manageable. Do not expect to have straight hair at the end of a smoothing treatment. However, you can expect your hair to feel much softer and silky than it was before. Most Smoothing Treatments should be seen as a surface treatment: they do something to the outside of the hair shaft that makes the hair look better, but don't alter it the way a straightening treatment would.

Some smoothing treatments do not contain keratin, as is the case with Bumble and bumble’s Blow Out. The reason is that keratin is animal-sourced and some companies like Bumble and bumble do not use any animal ingredients. 

Both types of treatments last about three months.

Major steps of a Straightening or Smoothing Treatment
While the results are different, both treatments are applied more or less the same way. Each company’s product has a unique procedure, but these are the major steps that you can expect when receiving a Straightening or Smoothing Treatment:
1. Consultation
2. Clarifying shampoo
3. Blow dry(optional)
4. Application of the product on either dry or damp sectioned hair
5. Product processing (usually for about 30 minutes)
6. Rinse and Shampoo
7. Flat Iron
8. Trim (optional)
The application of the treatment lasts from two to three hours.


Smoothing services offered at Atelier Emmanuel

In part II we talk about the role of formaldehyde. For now it is worth mentioning that the outcome of the OSHA investigations (still ongoing for some brands) convinced Atelier Emmanuel not to offer Brazilian Blowout and Brasil Cacau Cadiveu in its menu. We continue to explore possible alternatives that can give similar results.

Currently, the smoothing service we offer is 

Keratin Complex Smoothing Therapy by Coppola

In May 2012, Keratin Complex was the first company and brand to receive formal OSHA compliancy:
http://www.ronwilson.com/keratin-complex.html
http://behindthechair.com/displayarticle.aspx?ID=2442&ITID=7
Keratin Complex Smoothing Therapy is a smoothing, revitalizing and rejuvenating treatment for the hair formulated to eliminate up to 95% of frizz and curls. It restores and restructures the hair from within, infusing  natural Keratin deep into the hair cuticle. The keratin is bonded into the cuticle by using a flat iron to relax the hair’s sub-cuticle layer and seal in the cuticle.

Of the brands we've tried so far, our team voted this one as the best combination of safety and effectiveness. All Atelier Emmanuel stylists who wish to offer the service are properly educated on its application protocol and received a certification from Coppola.

We also plan to add other smoothing treatments to our menu that do not use keratin, comply with all guidelines and requirements specified by the FDA and OSHA and offer efficient results.

We have shortlisted three additional brands that have gotten positive reviews and feedback:
• “Blow Out” by Bumble and bumble (no keratin)
• “F450 Amino Fusion Smoothing Treatment” by Thermafuse
• “Hapuna” by Paul Brown

We are currently scheduling demo/trial classes to assess these. We will report back to you on our results!

In the meantime, to clients who are interested in smoothing treatment, we recommend scheduling a free consultation with one of our stylists. Call us at 415.362.8063 to make an appointment. 

Read Part II: The Formaldehyde Controversy

Should you have any questions or comments about this article, please feel free to comment below!