iNOA Color's New formula: What has changed and why is it better?

We've been using iNOA color since it first launched in 2010. Two years later, they've reformulated and improved the line. Our L’Oréal Professionnel educator, Adriana, came by to give our staff an overview of the new formulation. We thought we'd update you, in turn.




First Off, Why iNOA Color?
There are two things that differentiate it from other color brands:

1. iNOA uses MEA instead of Ammonia (Inoa actually stands for Innovation No Ammonia)
2. iNOA uses an oil-based technology, while other brands use a water-based technology

To talk about the benefits of Inoa, we first have to briefly cover hair anatomy and how hair coloring works. Don't worry, this part will be quick:

See those overlapping "scales"? That's the cuticle.
They work like armor, protecting the inner part of the hair.  

This is what hair looks like when the cuticle is removed.
Underneath, you are seeing the hair cortex.

To the left, the 3 main parts of hair. The cortex, for our purposes, is where the all action is. The melanin in the cortex is what gives hair its color. To color hair, we open up the protective cuticle so that color can penetrate into the cortex. And, then of course, we want to close the cuticle so it can keep protecting the hair strand, as well as keeping that beautiful new color in there.
* For more info on hair anatomy, check out this concise article we found.




Any of you who've had their hair colored or highlighted knows that the active ingredients used in hair color are quite strong. These are chemicals capable of removing, replacing and/or covering up pigments naturally found inside the hair shaft. They can achieve great results, but they also have their possible downsides, such as skin irritation, allergic reactions, hair breakage, skin discoloration and unexpected hair color results.

One of the main ingredient that might cause such side effects is ammonia. Ammonia helps open up the cuticle layer of hair. This allows the color molecules to penetrate into the cortex. Ammonia also serves to activate the peroxide in the color developer and it helps the pigments to form in the hair. As you can imagine, its a very key component of hair colors. So despite the potential side effects and the odor, it remains a main ingredient in nearly all hair coloring systems.

L’Oréal Professionnel  instead uses monoethanolamine, or MEA, an organic chemical compound that yields similar results as ammonia. Like ammonia, MEA is alkaline so it accomplishs the first step in permanent hair dye, which is to open the hair’s cuticle. It has the advantage of being odorless, unlike ammonia. On its own, however, it does not penetrate sufficiently enough to bring color to the cortex.

iNOA's innovation is to combine MEA with Oleogel to boost its performance.

This technology, ODS (Oil Delivery System), is different from most color systems which are water based. ODS coats the outside of hair strands and naturally repulses MEA. This pushes inwards, towards the hair cortex, helping it penetrate more deeply than it would on its own. Because MEA transports the oxidants and pigments that will create your new hair color, this helps get the color where you want it, in the cortex.

Results:

Because it doesn’t have ammonia, iNOA does not have the side effects of a regular color brand. Also, the ingredients used in iNOA actually preserve lipids better than ammonia. Lipids are the natural conditioner of the hair. Retaining them keeps your hair smooth and healthy.

Being oil-based, iNOA preserves color better. With water-based color formulations not all the color gets into the cortex. Some of it will remain on the surface, mixed in the water; consequently it gets rinsed away in the post-processing shampoo. With iNOA, the oil that’s applied on the surface of the hair drives the other ingredients inward. The oxidants and pigments are 'pushed' into the hair cortex for full absorption, making the color more durable.


ODS2
iNOA just launched ODS2, a new version of its Oil Delivery System.

ODS2 improves and refines the formulation and process of applying Inoa color.

1. Formulation: ODS required the use of several tubes. The stylists had to mix the pigments with the other ingredients at the time of service. ODS2 comes in one tube. 
2. Benefit for the client: A pre-blended formulation insures color uniformity. In the prior system there was a chance that pigments might not properly mix with the other ingredients, come in contact with the scalp and cause irritation and color variations. With ODS2, there is no chance of this happening. Now if a client experiences itchiness or irritation, it is due to an allergy to a specific pigment — a problem that would occur with any color system. In that case, she would have to try another tone, using another pigment.

ODS2 in brief, is an oil-based system that maximizes the effectiveness of the permanent hair color process, while providing more lipid protection compared to other brands. ODS2 covers 100% of white hairs and offers 59 shades. It minimizes skin irritation, and doesn't have the household cleanser smell and other side effects of ammonia. The consistency of the product is more like a thick skin cream rather than the usual pasty hair dyes. All of this makes for a better experience while you are in the chair, and great results after your color appointment.


Atelier Emmanuel offers Inoa color for a minimal upcharge of $10 to the price of the service. Consult with your stylist to see if it is a good option for you. Bear in mind to only receive Inoa color from a colorist who has been properly trained to use it. The process is different in some key ways from a regular color application, and you want to make sure your colorist understands these so that you get the best results.